
This week I have been making Ruby Grapefruit and Campari Marmalade. Ruby Grapefruit are such a beautiful colour when cooked as a marmalade or as candied peel, they look like rose coloured jewels when bottled in a glass jar.
While making the marmalade and because I cannot bear to waste a thing, I have used the discarded rinds from the tops and bottoms of the grapefruit to make candied grape fruit rind to stash away in the cupboard. With Christmas coming, I start thinking about how I can use it in a Christmas treat, and then I think of a friend’s panforte...
Before I get on to that panforte, I will start with Candied Ruby Grapefruit Rind. It is so easy to make. All you have to do is to throw all the tops and bottoms of the grapefruit in to a saucepan, cover them with water and bring to the boil. Then strain off the water and repeat the process again with fresh water and boil until the skins are soft. (This takes out the bitterness of the rind also.) When the rinds are tender and are cool enough to handle cut them in 5mm slices. In a clean pan make syrup of equal parts water and sugar to generously cover the rinds. Bring the sugar and water to the boil, (to dissolve the sugar), then add the rinds and boil to reduce until there is only a small amount of liquid left in the pan. As sugar burns and catches if you walk away, it is a good idea to watch it at the end of the cooking. Bottle while hot in clean jars.
The grapefruit rind is delicious dipped into chocolate as an after dinner treat with coffee or the rinds look glamorous and professional as decoration on the top of icing on an orange cake or cup cake. Best of all, try using them in a Christmas pudding or the traditional Christmas cake instead of the commercial peel.
I gave a jar of the candied grapefruit rind to Lesley McKay and this is her Panforte recipe, which she makes for our Christmas feast. Lesley and I have many things in common she is a very good cook and has tenacity and diligence when sourcing and documenting recipes - and more importantly we share the same grandchildren.
Her Panforte is rich and spicy rather like a plum pudding, only better, and is guaranteed to convert any one who is sceptical of traditional fruitcakes. The panforte is best eaten, sliced into very fine slices served after the meal with a glass of fine Muscat or simply served with a good black coffee at any time of the day or year.
Acknowledging that panforte recipes are many and varied, according to region, taste, and availability of ingredients, this one is Lesley’s current favoured version of what she regards still as a work in progress (note the options) even after making them for the past thirty years.
Panforte
Quantities are for one large panforte made in a 28cm cake tin (a handy size to have around at Christmas time) or two in 20cm tins (ideal for gifts). If making two, it is best to halve all of the ingredients and make them up separately.
250g unblanched almonds
250g raw hazelnuts
120g glacé apricots, chopped (or dried apricots, or a mix of both)
120g glacé pineapple or peaches, chopped
120g candied ruby grapefruit rind, chopped (or mixed citrus peel)
40 g raisins, chopped (optional)
100g dried figs, chopped
1 & 1/3 cup plain flour
4 tablespoons cocoa
120g dark chocolate
2/3 cup sugar
1 cup honey
2 tsp cinnamon
2 tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground coriander
½ ground cloves
½ ground nutmeg
½ ground white pepper
Grease and line with non-stick baking paper, or edible rice paper the base and sides of the cake tin(s).
Roast the nuts on separate trays in the oven at 200C for 15 minutes. Leave the skins on the almonds but when slightly cooled, wrap the hazelnuts in a tea towel, or shake in a plastic bag to rub off the skins. Don’t fret if some skins remain. Chop the hazelnuts and almonds roughly, combine well in a bowl with the chopped fruits, sifted flour, cocoa and spices.
Melt the chocolate in a metal bowl over simmering water. Put the sugar and honey into a separate saucepan stirring very gently over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. It is better not to let the honey and sugar become too toffee-ish; just make sure the sugar is melted and then simmer for a few minutes before pouring on to the dry ingredients, followed quickly by the melted chocolate. Working quickly, combine the ingredients thoroughly before the mixture starts to firm. Time is of the essence here. If the phone rings now, just let it ring, it can’t be more important than the panforte!
Press mixture firmly and evenly into the tin. It becomes sticky but dipping your fingers into milk helps to spread the mixture into shape.
Bake at 160C for 30 min. Don’t overcook. Remove from the oven and cool in tin. Turn out and remove paper (leave edible rice paper on if using that). Leave at least one day before cutting. Before serving, sift icing sugar on top. Wrapped in aluminium foil, the panforte will keep for weeks.
